A day in RDI Cambodia

We woke up at 6 a.m. and took advantage of the coolest hour of the day to go for a run. After uncountable hellos to friendly villagers, we came back to our bungalow, took a shower and headed to the local cafe to have breakfast with other 25 people, both locals and expats. I had the yummiest noodle soup and a fabulous iced coffee with condensed milk.

Arriving in the lab, I was introduced to the water monitoring program and spent a couple of hours helping to test the iron, manganese and arsenic levels of water from various sources. A run to the office closeby and I got to know my responsibility for that afternoon: draft a marketing plan for the expansion of the water purification program, a lot more in my field. After the communal lunch (this time in the NGO director's house), I dove into the plan, only being interrupted for some minutes because of the visit of the UNICEF global head of water projects.

6p.m. is dinner time, everybody together again. After that, 75 minutes of English class for the kids in the village, who were really interested in getting to know me. Back home, some meaningful conversations with my roommate, a bit o reading and bed!

I need to say I'm loving it! The community life, the shared meals and the short distances embrace us with such kindness that it's hard to describe. And working with smart, independent and idealistic people who are happy to dedicate their time for a cause and for the others is always a big pleasure. Maybe that's why all the expats are extending their stay. And perhaps that could be my life, too...

Visiting the Khmer Rouge killing fields

From 1975 to 1979 (yes, this recently!), the Khmer Rouge regime exterminated over 3 million people in Cambodia, notably ex government officials and "intellectuals" (teachers, educated people, people wearing glasses, etc). The method was ruthless: after some time in gruesome jails, weak prisoners would be transported in trucks to killing fields. Blindfolded, they would stand on the edge of a massive hole, would be strongly hit on the back of the neck and fall into their death graves (in case they weren't yet dead, some poisonous chemicals - also used to avoid the decomposing smell - and the burial would finish the job).

Digging to understand the context behind such cruelty, one might find a determined leader with a strong vision for his country. What Pol Pot wanted, seemingly, was a place based on agriculture, simple, where everybody would be the same and have enough - not a bad idea in itself.

Obviously, there was a lot wrong with the execution. The new regime didn't allow "dissidents", and we all know it's impossible to have everybody thinking the same. Even worse was the fact that, as most dictatorships, the system assumed all governmental decisions would be good; therefore all the force and power was concentrated and all civil mechanisms to guarantee basic values or legal actions to remove the leaders was nonexistent.

I guess we value democracy more and more when we are faced with these horrendous historical moments. Although it might be slower and more controversial in decision making - and in economic development, one may say - it theoretically never trespasses some essential values, such as (depending on the country) life, freedom, equality or family.

For the leaders-to-be, I guess there is a lesson to be learnt: the end does NEVER justify cruel means. We can never build an equal society with unequal respect to people's ideas and lives. In the end of the day, how can we foster happiness if not with love and consistent good actions?

Does tourism save or destroy culture?

Since I started this trip, one question has always been on my mind: does tourism save or destroy culture?

We all know that tourism interferes in the local culture: brings points of view from all over the world; injects money into the economy; stimulate constructions; demands the presence of ATMs; stretches business hours; puts a price in handicrafts and traditional arts expressions; etc.

Therefore, a tourist destination is more likely to have the presence of global brands, but also more money to support local cuisine and arts (there wouldn't be tons of Thai food courses in Chiang Mai or daily Vietnamese traditional dance performances in Hue without travellers). In the same way, it's very probable that the life of a touristic town be less simple and less community based; however, its residents will possibly have more access to goods and comforts than before.

In the book "Once while travelling", Lonely Planet founder Tony Wheeler - a travel enthusiast himself - brings up some interesting points:

The First World may have exported McDonald's, KFC and Pizza Hit, but we've brought back Thai, Mexican and Japanese food to balance those exports.

and

...it's very patronising for those of us in the developed world to think people should maintain a simples life to please us: 'It was so nice when you didn't have electricity and cars and motorcycles and life was simple.' I've yet to see a Third World village that didn't rejoice when electricity arrived or cheer when they could enjoy motorcycles traffic jams instead of walking to work.

I don't have an answer to the original question above. Probably tourism both saved and destroys culture. What I'm sure of is we shouldn't measure its impact just through the material gains of the visited societies, as often cars, electronics and money don't represent a better life. Perhaps a better indicator would be the tolerance and cultural understanding raised through individuals' direct contact, especially in times of fear and unjustifiable wars.


Kao San, the crowded backpackers' street in Bangkok, Thailand

Magnificent forest on the way to an Akha village in northern Laos

Exploring amazing museums in Hanoi

Women's Museum

This morning I went to the Women's Museum in Hanoi, an experience that touched me quite a lot.

I knew women participated in the Vietnam war, but I didn't have any idea about how crucial their role was. Besides being soldiers on the battlefields, women led associations; planted and transported almost all the food; sewed the clothes; built 10.000 km of tunnels for protection, transport and education; took care of the wounded; and delivered messages to soldiers pretty much everywhere.

The most amazing thing, though, is not what they did, but how they did it: with love, without losing the tenderness, in spite of the terrible circumstances (as we can perceive from the pictures, objects and diaries in the exhibition). They sewed while in prison, wrote letters to elders and loved ones, served food with a smile and, with all that, kept everybody connected, hopeful and enjoying brief moments of joy.


Museum of Ethnology

In the afternoon it was time for the Ethnology Museum, with information, pictures, objects and constructions - both in and outdoors - from the various ethnic groups that formed the Vietnamese nation.

The part that I liked the most was the open-air exhibitions, particularly one building: the Central Highlanders' communal centre.

For those tribes, the highest, biggest, most beautiful and most important construction was the space that hosted spiritual ceremonies, parties and community gatherings, which also represented the male power.

Although the villages remain nowadays, these sort of spaces are rapidly disappearing, whereas other symbols of status (e.g. the individuals' house windows) are more evident than before, probably showing us that we've not always been taking the wisest path.

The stories we tell

In this trip I realised I'm a constant observer and enthusiastic student of the stories, tales and legends we pass forward, much more than clothing, ceramics or even architecture. Perhaps that interest is always present because it strongly determine our perception of reality (maybe even more than unquestionable facts), as 2 situations happened today illustrate.

First, in the morning, I went to the National Museum (ex Revolutionary Museum), which tells Laos' history since pre-history until the present days. Unsurprisingly, it elevates figures like Marx, Engels, Mao, Ho Chi Minh and other chiefs of state of socialist countries.

On the other hand, one can easily perceive some resentment against the French and - what called my attention the most - a super friendly approach towards the Dutch of the East Indias Company, but an extremely hard naming of the US forces (puppet soldiers of the imperialism), even if their interests in Laos weren't too far apart.

In the afternoon, I joined a meditation session in the Wat Sok Pa Luang. Concentration demanded extra effort, as the monks were building a foot path 10 meters away, therefore doing a lot of noise. That moment represented daily life for me: heaps of things urging our attention (including advertisements with its intangible and unreal promises associated with products, which use persuasive stories and visual effects that make them sound essential), while the real and important things are slipping between our fingers, lacking our accurate perception, integrity and discipline.

Back to the Essence

Some days ago, I had the incommensurable pleasure of reconnecting to the essence of life, taking a 2 days trek north of Luang Namtha, Laos.

The nature was exuberant, and showed us its beauty and power. The rain was pouring down, the terrain was super slippery and the greenest sights, forest-like smells and gentle touches from life in the mountains were breathtaking.

In the evening of the first day, after 7 hours walk and many falls on the mud, we arrived to the harmonious Akha village. Its 175 inhabitants were pretty excited to see us (they only see visitors about once a month) and taught us simplicity stands hand by hand with happiness. The dwellings were really basic, but everybody was always welcome. The rice based food was yummy, children had a lot of attention, romantic love was encouraged, and gates and ceremonies kept the bad spirits outside (as well as the community united, I must say). No wonder the Akha people go to the town every week, but always come back to the village.

A big thanks to Green Discovery (who promotes low impact eco tourism), to our amazing guy (who knew all about the forest and connected us to the culture of the village) and to my 3 fellow trekkers (the best company I could wish!)


The Akha village



In our sleeping hut



Yummy mountains food

No stress vs. War

Experiencing the tranquility of Laos is amazing! Nobody is ever stressed and always ready to adapt to all situations - e.g. transform one's dining room into a restaurant or wait 5 hours for a bus to have enough passengers.

We read some anthropologist saying that the "no stress" / "life exists to be enjoyed" culture is so strong that people are totally not encouraged to work or even study too hard, a fact that is pretty different compared to other Asian cultures.

I imagine how confronting was a war in such a place. The big population of villagers - who in reality don't feel any difference if the country is communist or capitalist - would probably find violence very alien and the fact that another country would waste a lot of money and human lives in such a theoretical mission just insane.

Welcome to the Land of a Million Elephants

Quick facts about intriguing Laos:

- 5,8 million people (a big chunk live in hill tribes and doesn't share the same ethnic, cultural and religious background);
- Most heavily bombed country per capita in history of warfare (177 bombs a day or 1 planeload of bombs every 8 minutes for 9 years);
- Communist, in the process of embracing market economy (US suspended the economic embargo in 2003);
- Around 10% of the population fled the communist revolution. Many remaining opponents were oppressed, including the centuries-old Lao monarchy members, who were exiled in the border with Vietnam in 1977 not to be seen again;
- accepts 3 currencies everywhere (the Lao kip, the Thai baht and the US dollar).

About picturesque Laos:

The bus system reflects a lot the laid back Lao lifestyle. Check it out:
- if there aren't enough passengers, we wait until the bus is full (the other day, we waited 5 hours);
- a bus can easily hit a lamppost while parking in the bus station. In that case, no panic. We find another wooden post and replace it (the lack of energy is almost not noticed anyway);
- if you need to spit, why not on the bus floor?
- if you need to pee, just ask the bus driver. He'll pull over right away and all passengers will find a spot to relieve themselves on the sides of the road;
- if the old bus overheats, we spot for some minutes and continue;
- as people also need to transport the motorbikes, rice sacks and animals, let's squeeze a little bit and fit everything.

I must say the magic is conquering me. I'm really enjoying this peace of land - or should I say state of mind?


Border Thailand - Laos just crossed

Typical Lao bus (the one that hit the lamppost)



Overheated bus in Laos

Just back from Meditation Retreat

I just arrived back from a 2 days Meditation Retreat, north of Chiang Mai, Thailand. The program is run in the International Centre of the Buddhist University here and intends to spread the Buddhist theory and practice for both Thai people and foreigners.

The time there was really good! I learnt various medidation techniques, medidated for long hours and got to understand the Buddhist worldview a little better.

One thing that was particularly remarkable was the Master's strength and coherency. He just lost 100 monk friends in the conflicts in Burma, but kept the serenity and led us to continuosly wish happiness and wellbeing to all beings, including the aggressors. He said truly free and happy people are compassionate and loving to others, which meant the Burmese officials were suffering for not acting that way and therefore needed our wishes.

May all beings be safe and secure
May all beings be happy and peaceful